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Friday, January 30, 2015

Wool Jacket


Hello..
I finished my wool jacket and happy with how it turned out :) I like the simple style that is perfect for everyday wear. 
This jacket is based on BurdaStyle pattern 10/2013#106 with modifications, I lengthen the jacket until the middle of my thigh, I added self cover buttons and changed the original pockets to in-seam pockets.
 
I mentioned on my last post about my MAGAM plan, I made this jacket to test the pattern. I didn't make muslin, so I just sew the jacket as it is.
After the jacket done (without lining), I tried it and found out that the shoulder was a little bit big, the sleeve length was too long and the jacket bottom was too big. So, I have to adjust the jacket. 
 
Overall, I really like the result of this jacket. The length is just perfect for my petite figure and have pockets to keep my hands warm :)

Materials:
2.5 yards of brushed wool in grey color, 2.5 yards silk satin in grey color, fusible interfacing, 5 self cover buttons, 5 snap fasteners, self made shoulder pads and same color of threads.

Sewing Process:
  • After I lengthen the jacket pattern 15 cm, I transfer all the pattern pieces onto the fabrics and cut them all.
  • I worked on the fashion fabric first (wool). Sew all the pieces together and found out that the shoulder was a little bit big, so I have to added darts 1 cm in the back at the shoulder and 1 cm added to the front dart (the original pattern has front dart, so I just added / made the dart bigger). Also, the sleeves were too long. So I reduced 8 cm. And the jacket bottom at the back was too big. So, I reduced 2.5 cm from the bottom back side up to the waist. I just created smooth line with ruler and sew it.
  • After the jacket ready, I sew in-seam pockets in both sides. I never worked with in-seam pocket before and I was lucky that the pockets came out nicely. For the in-seam pockets pattern, I used from another BurdaStyle pattern, here is the link. The original pockets pattern finished with topstitch on the outer pocket. I tried it but it doesn't look nice. So, I picked out the topstitch and leave the pocket as it is. I will see how the pockets behaves when I am wearing the jacket.
  • After that, I sew the lining. Then hand stitched the shoulder pads on the lining.
  • After the shoulder pads done, I inserted the collar in between the lining and the fashion fabric. Sew the front jacket and the front panel together. Turned the lining inside. Press all the edges with iron. Sew the sleeves hem and hemline.
  • The last two works were sew the snap fasteners and self cover buttons. Done!
Here are the pictures of the jacket details, including the lining, the in-seam pockets and the closer look of the snap fasteners and the self cover buttons.



And more pictures of the jacket, front - side and back views




Until next...

28 comments:

  1. Beautiful jacket, Hana. You have made a lovely job of it and the fit is fabulous. Well done.

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    1. Thank you for sweet compliment, Kathy :)

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  2. This is lovely! I bet it feels warm and nice to wear. I have a wool jacket on my sewing list, hope I can produce something as professional looking!

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    1. Thank you, Nancy. I am wearing it today and it feels so warm and cozy :) Good luck on your jacket.

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  3. Gorgeous Hana! And I agree, the silhouette is just right for your small frame! Did you have any trouble with the self covered buttons? They look so professionally done!

    A Colourful Canvas

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    1. Thank you, Sue. Actually, I didn't have any trouble with the self covered buttons. I bought the buttons set in the Japanese shop near my home, they came in the small box completed with tool and the instructions were so easy to follow :)

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  4. That is a lovely, sumptious coat - and you are right, the simple style and length, especially in this thick fabric, are just right for the coat. It's always a good trick using buttons over snaps when working with this sort of fabric.

    A very wearable wearable muslin indeed :)

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  5. Lovely coat, simple lines, stylish and practical. Your pattern modifications are a real improvement on the original pattern

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  6. Beautiful Hana! I think you made a great decision to change the pockets and I love your buttons!!

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  7. Hana, spectacular job! I love the clean lines of this coat.

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  8. Gorgeous coat! I details are stunning -- you have a winner.

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    1. Thank you, Annie. I am flattered :)

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  9. Its gorgeous Hana. And thoes big self covered buttons totally make it :)x

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  10. Hana, I love ,love your new coat.. You did a beautiful job, and the fabric is gorgeous.. Smart idea to add the snaps and use buttons on top... Happy sewing.

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    1. Thank you, Judy. Happy sewing to you too :)

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  11. Everything about your jacket is so beautiful! Simple, yet classic. Just perfect.

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    1. Thank you, Lisa. I always love simple style :)

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  12. It looks great! Simplicity at it's best! And for some reason, I really like the size of your fabric covered buttons. They add to the aesthetic :-)

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  13. Wow Hana....great job! it looks really well done.

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  14. That coat is perfect on you, dear Hana !! It looks so professional that you can tell passers you bought it in a boutique and they compliment you. Love it !!

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