Saturday, May 31, 2014

Burdastyle Pleated Dress

Hello dear readers,
I made a new dress this morning :) It was a very easy and fast project to make, I cut the fabric - fuse fusible interfacing on the facings - pin all the pieces - sew it and in three hours my dress finished and  ready to wear:)

For the pattern, I used Burdastyle Satin Dress 04/2013 # 108 size 36. I traced the dress pattern long time ago but didn't have a chance to make it.
But I made three blouses based on same pattern, you can see the first blouse here and the second and third blouses here.
I modified the pattern by adding 1.5 cm on the dress sides, starting from the waist down to the hem. I also made the neckline a little bit higher 0.75 cm ( I did this to avoid neckline gaping because this time I used knit fabric)
As I want the easiest and fastest dress to make, I omitted the pockets and made my version elastic belt.

For the fabric, I used the left over fabric from my paneled shirt - kind of knit cotton fabric in grey color with printed leaves in purple color.

As I mentioned above, the sewing process is really fast :)
  • I cut all the fabric pieces, fuse the fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the neck facings and sew the facing right sides together - press it with iron and sew the raw edges with overlocker sewing machine. Then I pin the pleated area and baste it 1 cm from seam allowance - this method is important to make later sewing easier.
  • I sew the dress at the shoulder - right sides together - press it with iron. Then I sew the neck facing onto the neckline right sides together. I used my scissor and clip the curved area and turn the facing to inside. Iron it and topstitch 0.50 cm.
  • After that, I sew the dress at both side right sides together, pin the seam allowance of the armhole and sew it. Then I sew the hemline 6 cm - I like the bigger hem on the knit fabric, I think it makes the hem look nicer :)
  • I also make an elastic belt from the black elastic with 3 cm wide, I just measure my waistline + 1.5 seam allowances on both sides - then cut the elastic and sew the end of the elastic together. Done!
Here are more pictures of me wearing this dress, side and back views

I also want to show you the picture of the dress in my dress form, front and back views

And the last picture is the closer look of the pleated at the neckline and the armhole finishing - I hope you can see it properly :)

I am wearing this dress the whole day for testing and I love it. I really love the comfy feeling while wearing this dress :)
And today is the last day of MMM'14, are you guys enjoying the challenge and saw so many outfits out there ? I am enjoying MMM since last year and I am still pop over it every night and I think I still need some more night to check what every one's made.

That's it for today post, see you very soon on my trousers post. Happy sewing and wish you all a great weekend!!

Monday, May 26, 2014

Sleeveless Top In Polka dots Silk Satin

Hello everyone!
Thank you so much for your lovely comments on my last post :) And also a warm welcome to my three new followers on Bloglovin'.
I finally finished my basic sleeveless top :) I cut the fabric many weeks ago but only yesterday I managed to finish it. This top is my second version of boatneck top based on Built by Wendy book - the shift dress pattern. You can see my first top here, hi-low top.
This time I didn't want a hi-low style, so I just follow the original pattern.

For the fabric, I used the leftover polka dots silk satin from the lining of my double breasted cape. I think the fabric is not the best to wear in the hot summer day but the polka dots print makes me want to sew it so badly :) I think is fine to wear it at home but not for outside.

Pattern modifications:
I used Built by Wendy Shift dress pattern size S, followed the instructions of making a boatneck style on project 4, as shown on the picture below - dress in color block in front.
I omitted the sleeves and front darts, make the front-back and armhole facing - fused it with fusible interfacing in the wrong side of the fabric and the top length is 3 cm under my hips.
I used 1.5 cm seam and hem allowances. Also reduced 2 cm on both center front and back at the neckline to avoid gaping.

The sewing process was easy and fast - I've done the top in two hours plus 1 hour on pattern tracing and cutting the fabric that I did many weeks ago :)

Well, I don't want to explain more about this simple basic top. I am sure many of you already master it. I will show you the closer look of the front, side and back top :)
Sorry for the wrinkles, I forgot to iron before I wear it

I am wearing this outfit the whole day at home for testing. I like it and I am thinking to make some more basic top like this, maybe with shorts sleeves in knit fabric or sleeveless in printed cotton with peter pan collar ;)

P.S. I am still working on the trousers little by little - it's a little bit boring but I have to do it :-) And also, I promise myself to make another version of my April dress with A-line skirt - I did it this morning but the result wasn't so good and I am thinking to cut the bodice and make a skirt from it. We will see later..

Happy sewing! <3<3

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Self-Drafted Basic Skirts

Hi everyone,
Today post is about my four favorite skirts that I wear a lot but I didn't blog about it. I made the first skirt in 2010 and continue to make one skirt each year. So, now I had four basic skirts to wear for everyday wear :)
Pencil Skirts.

For the pattern, I followed step by step instructions from Burdastyle, "How to make a basic skirt"

Black pencil skirt ( made in 2010)- For the fabric, I used 1.5 yards of medium weight cotton that had a slight stretch in black color. The skirt has front and back darts, straight waistband , invisible zipper at the CB but I omitted hook n eye - so the zipper inserted until the top of waistband. I also omitted the lining.

Printed blue cotton pencil skirt (made in 2012)- I used the leftover fabric from my shift dress. As the fabric is not enough, I made the waistband with black elastic (4.5cm wide). The skirt also has front and back darts, invisible zipper inserted until the top of waistband/elastic and I added back slit/vent in the skirt.

A-line Skirts

For the pattern, I followed step by step instructions from Burdastyle "How to make an a-line skirt".

Printed dark grey A-line skirt (made in 2011). For the fabric, I used 1.5 yards of printed crepe fabric - it's drape so nicely and I think is perfect to wear in summer. I also used the elastic waistband and omitted the hook n eye, so the work was the same manner as my printed pencil skirt above.

Actually, I did the first A-line skirt for my red dress The dress turned-out nicely and I love how the skirt behaved. So, I made the skirt after I have done my dress :)

Grey color A-line skirt (cut the fabric in the end of 2013 and finished the skirt some days ago). For the fabric, I used medium weight wool crepe. I cut the fabric in December 2013 but I was so lazy to sew it. As MMM'14 is in the air right now, I remember that I have the skirt that need to finish. So, on Monday I sew the skirt and it done in three hours :)
This skirt has straight waistband, the length is just under the knee, invisible zipper at CB and finished the waistband by sew the hook n' eye and snap fastener. I also fuse the bias tape before I sew the zipper for smooth finishes :)

That's it for today post everyone. I still working on my Burdastyle trousers, my muslin done last week and this week is cutting the fabric and sewing it. Hopefully I will finish it by the end of the month :)
Happy sewing!

Monday, May 19, 2014

New Version of Burdastyle Pleated Blouse

Hello everyone!
I made a new blouse yesterday! This is my third pleated blouse based on Burdastyle pattern 04/2013 size 36 with variation, I inserted the elastic in the hemline.
I make the experiment on my second blouse that I didn't blog about it and I love how it turned-out. I wore it last Friday to match with my 3/4 pants to participate MMM'14 day 16.

The picture below is old version of my second blouse, taken in the local market last year when I participated MMM'13 day 18. The blouse is exactly like the original pattern :)

The picture below is a new version of my second blouse with elastic inserted in the hemline. This picture taken in Old Taipa Village - Macau last Friday for MMM'14 day 16.
And here is the picture of my two blouses, I used printed viscose in yellow with small flowers for the old blouse and silk polyester in fuchsia for the new blouse.

More details of the new blouse, I used 1.5 yards of silk polyester fabric in fuchsia color - it's a leftover lining fabric from my Mad Men Dress. In the beginning I am not sure if the fabric is perfect for hot summer day but I am so in love with the color and can not resist to make a blouse with it :)
And today I am testing the blouse, I am wearing it the whole day and I like it. I didn't sweat so much even it was a very hot day.

The sewing process:
  • It is very easy and fast. After I cut all the fabric pieces and fuse the fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the facing, I pleated and pin the front piece exactly on the mark of pattern instruction then stitch it, so the pleated will stay in place.
  • Then I sew the front and back piece right sides together at the shoulder. I sew the front and back facing right sides together. Iron it and sew the raw edge using my overlocker machine.  After that, I sew the facing on to the neckline right side together. Clips the edges, turn it inside the blouse and topstitching the way around the neckline
  • After the neckline done, I sew the front and back blouse at the sides. But don't forget to stop the stitching in the mark of the armhole ( I hope you understand what I mean ). Then stitch around the armhole.
  • The last work is insert the elastic in the blouse bottom. I sew the hem allowance 1.5 cm and leave 3 cm open to insert the elastic. I used 1 cm wide elastic x 78 cm long ( my waist measurement). Then I inserted the elastic inside the hemline, tight them in the end and sew the opening area. Done! I hope you understand what I mean :) Here are the two pictures of how I inserted the elastic and the result,

And more pictures of the new blouse,

The last picture was taken this morning in front of my son school. I am wearing me-made outfit for MMM'14 day 19 - my new blouse and an old self-drafted shorts :)
Happy sewing and wishing you all a great week!! :-)

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Easy Twist Top And MAGAM May Plan

Hello everyone,
I made a new top! A very easy twist top based on Burdastyle tunic pattern 08/2012 size 34 ( only used the bodice and sleeve pattern) and followed step by step tutorials from Threads magazine June/July 2013.
This is a very cute and comfortable loose fitting top - V neck style and I didn't sew the front and back neckline, I just leave it raw.

Many months ago I transfer Burdastyle pattern 08/2012 bodice and sleeve pattern size 34 with adjustment on neckline and CB (sway back adjustment), then I make it as my basic sloper.
Then I copied my basic sloper and continue working on the pattern to make a twist top. Followed easy step by step tutorials form Threads magazine June/July 2013. Here is the picture from the magazine,

The process of drawing the new pattern of twist top is very easy and fast. In 30 minutes I finished the pattern and ready to cut the fabric :-)
The instructions said that I need 3-4 yards of knit fabric but I only have 1.5 yards of blue jersey knit. Well, my fabric is obviously not enough :( I search my stash and found another 1.5 yards of black jersey knit :-) Then I decided to make color block twist top, blue color for the front and sleeve, black color for the back.
The front top supposed to be only in one piece of fabric but as I don't have enough fabric, I make it in two pieces and then sew it together. After that, I twist it just like the instruction said.
Here is my sewing progress,
After the above process done, I sew the sleeves onto the bodice then sew the back hem. The front top doesn't need hem because it twist together, I hope you understand what I mean :-)
Then I sew the front and the back top right sides together. After that, I sew the sleeve hem. Done!

Here is the finished top, front view - close front view  and back view

And the last picture of me wearing my new top. My husband took a picture of me for MMM day 9. I stayed at home the whole day - rain and temperature drop. I did a lot of house work that day and some hour sewing :)

I am loving my new twist top, it's so comfortable and cute at the same time. I am planning to make one more top with different color maybe purple or white but with shorter length and little bit tight at the waist. And I must remember to buy enough fabric for it! :-)

And the last post of the day is about my plan for May MAGAM challenge. I will be making a trousers based on Burdastyle Bootcut Trousers 10/2013#126A size 36. For the fabric, I will use trousers fabric that I bought last month - kind of stretch twill woven cotton in grey color.
trousers image from Burdastyle pattern and my fabric
Happy sewing!!

Sunday, May 4, 2014

MAGAM Challenge: My Late April Dress And MMM'14 Day 4

Hello everyone,
This is my late April dress for MAGAM Challenge based on Burdastyle SVM Louisa Drop-waist Dress size 34 with modification and self-drafted circle skirt. You can check out my flat sketch and fabric here.

I did some modification on the bodice pattern,
  • Added front and back dart, inserted the zipper in the CB
  • Made the shoulder wider, added 1.5 cm from the shoulder line to the armhole and 2 cm from the shoulder line to the neckline.
  • Also made the front neckline higher 2 cm and back neckline lower 2 cm.
And for the skirt, as I couldn't find my self-drafted circle skirt that I made some time ago, I hacked my peplum and added some more centimeters until my knee :)
The sewing progress was fine because this is the second time I worked on both patterns, you can see my first work on the dress here and the peplum here

After all, I am very happy with how my dress turned out, it's very summery and comfortable. The neckline is in right proportion and the armhole is just fine without feeling tight.

As I am participating Me Made May 2014, today I am wearing my new dress and went out to the Venetian - Macau for little shopping and enjoying the weekend with my family. Here is a picture of me wearing my dress - front view,

 And here is the back view,

I also want to show you more pictures of the dress in my dress form, front-side-back and inner dress with facing,

front - side and back view of the dress
side dress with 2 front dart and back view with zipper
front dress and back dress with facings

The last picture is the hem line, finally I managed to sew a very nice and clean hem for a circle skirt, happy me!! I followed a great technique with video of narrow hemming a circle skirt by Gertie, watch the video here . And here you can see the result! Fantastic!!

That's it for today post everyone, in case you missed MMM'14 - you can check out the flickr group to see all the participants, here is the link.
And also don't forget to check out MAGAM challenge to see so many ladies trying to sew at least one garment a month in between their busy life, here is the link.

Happy sewing!!