Friday, July 31, 2015

Summer Outfit, V-Back Top and Shorts

Hello everyone..
As promised in my previous post, here is my new top that I made especially to wear with my orange shorts. The top has round front neckline, V-back, short sleeves, and loose fitting. In the end of my work, I have to make a tube top with straps because the top is transparent :)
Summer Top details
1.5 yards of jersey net in black colour and black thread

Pattern and modification:
I hacked the bodice pattern from Built By Wendy Dirndl dress size S.
I worked on the front bodice first by removed the dart. I slashed the dart and drew a straight line from the dart point down to the waist. And then drew a new waistline.
After that I worked on the back bodice by removed the dart and added 1.5 cm to the outer side. Then drew a new line of the side and waistline.
As I wanted a loose top, I slashed the front and back bodice at the center front and back to the middle of the armholes and added 1.5 cm.
Also I reduced the front neckline 2 cm at the shoulder and 1 cm at the center front. Then drew a new front neckline.
Reduced the back neckline 2 cm at the shoulder and 15 cm at the center back. then drew a new V-back.
I did the same thing on the sleeve, I slashed in both sides 1.5 cm. Then drew a new sleeve pattern.
Here is my drawing process
And here is my drawing for the top pattern after I lengthen both front and back bodices 16 cm and lengthen the sleeve 2.5 cm

The sewing process of this top is fine, I pin and sew them as usual. The only little bit tricky was sewing the neckline. The fabric was so slippery to work with. I was thinking to use neck band but I gave up, I just folded the neckline at the seam allowance 1 cm and sew it along using twin needle.
The sleeves and hem allowances was 2 cm, also sew them with twin needle.
Here are two pictures of the final top, front and back views,

For the tube top, I used my husband t-shirt that he doesn't use anymore.
I measured my waistline and added 7 cm. Then I made a rectangle shape and cut my fabric in two pieces (front and back). Sew the front and back, right sides together. Folded the upper part 1.5 cm, stitch along but left 2 cm at the center back to insert the elastic.
Insert the elastic ( I used 1 cm elastic). Sew both end of elastic together and closed the opening area.
To make the straps, I cut the remaining fabric. Folded right sides together, pin and sew.
Then sew the straps onto the bodices, front and back.
Here is the result,

Now, I want to show you The Shorts detail
I finished this shorts last month and it was a part of my Magam June, but I decided to publish the detail after I have the top to wear with it.

1.5 yards of orange linen from stash, it was a leftover of my previous project BurdaStyle Tie Skirt.
Fusible interfacing, normal zipper, hook n eye fastener, gingham fabric for pocket and threads

Pattern and modification:

I used BurdaStyle pattern, Velvet Shorts 08/2014 size 34.
I omitted the bottom fold. Added the shorts length 6 cm.
Added both sides 1.5 cm and added the waistband 3 cm.
Also, instead of using the button closer for the waist band, I used hook n eye fastener

The sewing process was ok. The instructions were clear to follow.
The inner pocket was using gingham fabric, a very light and soft cotton that's good to avoid bulky.
Here is my process of sewing the pocket,

After the pocket done, I pin and sew the shorts as usual. The tricky part was to sew the front fly but glad I managed to finish it nicely. Well, not perfect but I am happy with it :)
Then, I hem the shorts 3 cm.
Nothing more I can explain about my work on this shorts. I just want to show you the closer look of the front, back and the pocket views

And the last three pictures of me wearing my summer outfit, side - back and front views


As I mentioned in the beginning, this post is my mixing Magam June and July with themes " stashbuster" and "sew bookish".

Happy sewing!!

Saturday, July 25, 2015

Magam July - Gingham Dress

I was planning to make this dress for Magam June but I couldn't finish it on time. So, instead of planning another garment for July, I just continue working on this dress :) And I was lucky that July theme is "Sew Bookish", exactly like what I have been doing :)

This dress is my third versions of Built By Wendy Dirndl Dress with modification. The dress has a hole at the front, sleeveless, semi gathered skirt, in seam pockets and knee length. Just perfect for summer :)

Dirndl dress (Lolita) from Built By Wendy book size S. I added a hole in the front bodice and added in seam pockets borrowed from BurdaStyle pattern.

2 yards of gingham cotton fabric
invisible zipper
medium weight fusible interfacing for interfaced the holes
light weight fusible tape for interfaced the zipper
1/2" bias tape
elastic loop and small button

Sewing Process:
I copied the patterns and slashed the front bodice in two to make a hole by measured 6 cm from the center front. I curved a little the upper part and then for the below part, I shaped like a sweetheart shape.
I added lining on the upper part and added facing on the below part.
Then I made a muslin.
After muslin done, I tried it and found out that so many areas I need to adjust. The bodice was too long, so I have to reduce 2 cm.
I reduced the outer shoulder 1.5 cm and smooth it down to the armhole.
Also made the neckline bigger by reduced the inner shoulder 4 cm and center front 1 cm. And then I drew a new neckline. For the neckline and armhole, I used 0.75 cm seam allowances and 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
I added 6 cm for the skirt front and back to make it a little bit fuller.
I made sway back adjustment and reduced the skirt length 7 cm

After I had all the new adjustment, I cut the fabric and sew piece by piece as usual.
The only tricky part was sew the hole, I have to fuse medium weight fusible interfacing in upper bodice lining and below bodice facing. I was thinking that fusible interfacing will make the hole stay in place but apparently not.

For the skirt, I gathered and sew them onto the bodice right sides together. Then I sew the in seam pockets.
After that, I sew front and back bodice right sides together from the armhole along the way the in seam pocket down to the hemline. Here is the result,

After the pockets done, I worked on the invisible zipper. I fused the fusible tape on the wrong side of the center back and sew the zipper in the right side. Then sew the elastic loop in the right side on the top of the zipper.
Then I sew 1/2" bias tape along the neckline right sides together, fold it inside and topstitched. I did the same thing for the armholes. I sew the small button on the top of the zipper. Here is the closer look,

The last work was sew the hemline, iron it and done! :)

And here are some pictures of the final dress, I am loving it but I am a little bit disappointed with my work on the matching plaids - it wasn't good especially in the back side. But anyway... the dress is so comfortable to wear in hot summer day and it fits me just right, not too tight and not too loose :)

If any of you are interested to join our MAGAM group, you can pop over the link and join us. Make A Garment A Month
Happy sewing!

Sunday, July 19, 2015

BurdaStyle Boy's Shorts

Hi everyone..
Today post is the continuation of my weekly update "Diy Friday". Sorry for not updating my diy's episode for so many weeks, I have been busy with a lot of good things :)

My little boy needed some new shorts to wear on summer. All his shorts are getting small and tight at the waist. Well, I decided to search my stash and found leftover of knit cotton that is enough to make two shorts. Yay!

knit cotton
3 cm wide elastic

Based on BurdaStyle Boy's Sweatpants 10/2013-124 size 110. I cut the pattern right on the knee and slashed a little (2 cm) in both sides to avoid tightness. I skip the front fly and pockets.
Image source:
The sewing process was easy and fast. I have no difficulty because I already made the first shorts for my son Halloween costume, you can pop over here if you are interested - Mickey Mouse Costume.

I worked on the pattern first, by glued the two pieces of the front and back together. So both sides of the patterns are in the middle. And then I added 1.5 cm seam allowances and hem allowance.
After that, I cut the fabric 2x.
Then sew the shorts, sew the waist and inserted the elastic.
Sew the hem using twin needle and for decoration, I fused a little ball fabric sticker in the corner of the shorts bottom. Done!

You can see here the final shorts, front and back views

And the closer look of the little ball, isn't it cute? :)

I am planning to make one more shorts with the same fabric but different decoration. Up to the boy, he will chose the train or the airplane :) I have both fused fabric stickers in my stash.

A little note:
I am linking this shorts to Caroline at for Show Off Saturday

Happy sewing!

Thursday, July 16, 2015

Magam June Part 2 : BurdaStyle Flounce Skirt And T-Shirt

Hello everyone...
I am taking time for posting my flounce skirt because I am waiting for the t-shirt to wear with it. And after working for so many days, here is the result :) Finally I am wearing my skirt with the second version of Burda t-shirt 07/2008 -126

Well, before I show you the details of my work on the second t-shirt and flounce skirt, I would love to show you my first version of the t-shirt.
I had this pattern since 2008, I was planning to make it but always distracted with other things and in the end I completely forgot about my plan.

T-shirt details (first version)
- Left over knit cotton in navy blue, 1 1/4 yards
- Threads

BurdaStyle magazine 07/2008 model 126 size 34. I don't have a link to click for the pattern detail but you can see the drawing below

Image source from BurdaFashion

Sewing Process:
I grade down the pattern to size 34 because the minimum size from the magazine is 36. I also reduced the armholes 1/4 cm.
Then I cut and sew the fabric exactly like the original pattern.
The process was fine, the t-shirt came with two pieces of pattern - front and back on fold and the back band.
The only tricky part was sewing the back band. I need to pull and sew it at the same time to get it right.
The neckline and armholes finished with 1 cm bands sewn with twin needle using orange color thread. I used twin needle as well for the hemline.
After all, I think the t-shirt turned out cute and I like it :)
Here are the pictures of the finished t-shirt, front - back and side views,

And here is the closer look of the finished neckband, armhole bands and back bottom band 
T-shirt details ( second version)
- Left over knit cotton in grey and purple 1 1/4 yards
- Thread
Sewing Process:
I omitted the back band.
I copied the pattern, slash the side. So I have two separate pieces of pattern ( front and back).
Then I lengthen the middle back to a full back piece pattern ( because the original pattern has a square hole to sew the band)
After that, I reduced the hem 5 cm and modified the hemline with U shape in both front and back.
Same as the first version, the neckline and armholes finished with 1 cm bands from the same fabric.
And the hemline finished with 1.5 cm hem allowance sewn with twin needle.
I really love the result more than the first version, the t-shirt looks so cool and modern with U shape hem line. And here are the pictures of the front and back views

And the picture of the closer look of the neckband, armhole bands and hemline 

Flounce Skirt details
2 yards of navy blue medium crepe
Invisible zipper
Fusible interfacing for the waistband

BurdaStyle Flounce Mini Skirt 09/2014 size 34. I added a waistband 4 cm wide for the skirt finished with hook n eye fasteners.
Image source from BurdaStyle

Sewing Process:
I drew the flounce according to the instructions.
Cut and sew the fabric in order and sew the invisible zipper.
After that I fused fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and sew it onto the skirt body right sides together. Folded the waistband wrong side together and pin the seam allowance 1.5 cm inside the waistband. And sew along until the end.
And then sew the hook n eye fasteners.
I top stitched the upper flounce, in this case I just placed the seam allowance to the upper direction and top stitched them from the right side of the skirt.
Then, the last work was sew the hemline 1 cm hem allowance. Press with iron. Done!

Here are the two pictures of the skirt details. It is very difficult to see the details because of dark colour but I think you can guess :)

And the last two pictures of me wearing the garments, front and side views,
This skirt is my second garment for June's Magam Challenge with the theme "Stashbuster"

I had one finished June's garment (orange short) but I will be posting the details when the top is ready. And also, my gingham dress is on the way to finish. It supposed to be for June garment challenge but I will extend it for July garment. So, the next post will be a mix between June and July garments. I hope Sarah Liz will accept it :)
Happy sewing!