Friday, June 26, 2015

Magam June Part 1 : Pleated Hem Batik Dress

Hi everyone...
I mentioned in my facebook post that I will be making four garments for June Magam with theme " Stashbuster" and here is my first garment,

I was planning to make the dress with a hole at neckline and pleated hem but the hole didn't turn out well. So I have to cover the hole with a bib and sew eight buttons for accessory. I will explain more about the unsuccessful hole in the below post.

I bought this batik in Kuta - Bali almost two years ago. The fabric already cut in a big rectangle with 1.8 yards long finished with rolled hemmed in both sides. I think the fabric is ready for beach cover or even tablecloth :)
The reason why I bought it because the length is enough to make a simple dress and the print is so beautiful. I especially love both end of the fabrics,
Beside the fabric, I also need invisible zipper, fusible tape, 9 small buttons, elastic for button loop, fusible interfacing, 1/2'' self-made bias tape from same fabric and thread

BurdaStyle Jamie Shift Dress size 34 modified with pleated hem.
I cut the dress bodice 62 cm long and pleated hem 109 cm wide x 19 cm long, I added 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
The neckline finished with bias tape sewn in the wrong side and added a bib in center front with eight buttons.
The back dress finished with invisible zipper and small button and loop closer.

The picture below shows my plan that didn't turn out well. I supposed to make a hole at the front neckline as shown in my flat sketch but I cut the hole a little bit big with the shape of triangle. The final result is not nice, the hole didn't laid flat and looks strange to me :(
Then I made a quick decision, I cover the hole with the same fabric. Problem solved!

You can see that the hole is a little bit big. Too bad! I think I should reduced 1 cm in all edges and make key hole, not triangle.

To cover the hole, I cut the fabric and fusible interfacing 40 cm long and 10 cm wide with 1 cm seam allowances in all edges. Fused the fusible in the wrong side of the fabric and folded the fabric wrong sides together.
Placed the fabric ( I called bib) in the center front with folded line at the neckline. Pin and basted the bib as shown in the picture below.
 Then sew along the edges 1/2 cm. Removed the basting. Press with iron
 And here is the wrong side of the bib. Looks awful but what can I do :)
After that, I sew eight buttons on the bib. As shown in the picture. The buttons are small printed with green gingham, so cute.
 I also sew the button and loop closer on the top of the zipper. I hope you can see it

For the pleated hem. I cut two pieces of the fabric 109 cm long and 19 cm wide, added 1.5 cm seam allowances.
I sew the two pieces right sides together. Sew the raw edges using an overlocker sewing machine.
Pleated along the hem 1 cm in each pleat and pin. It consumed time to did that but the result is lovely :)
Then sew the pleats. Sew the raw edge using an overlocker sewing machine. Sew the hem 1 cm hem allowance. Press the pleats down to hem with iron.
 Here are the finished pleats and hem. Right and wrong sides

And the last two pictures of the dress in the hanger. Front and back views

This dress is my fifth version of Jamie Shift Dress, here are my previous dresses based on the same pattern.
First version, Color Block Dress
Second version, Polka Dots Dress
Third version, Floral Shift Dress
Forth version, Vintage Modern Batik Dress

Happy sewing!

Monday, June 22, 2015

DIY Boy Doll

Hello everyone..
I made this doll for my younger son, Eduardo and the best thing is he loves it! :)
He was watching me sewing the doll and took the doll from my hand as soon as I finished. The funny thing is he named the doll Eduardo :)

Boy fabric doll from Make It And Love It. The pattern is free with easy step by step tutorial.

White cotton, red knit cotton, gingham fabric, dark brown polyester felt, button, polyester stuffing and threads

The sewing process was really fun and relaxing. I cut the fabrics and sew according to the Ashley tutorial. And here is my doll in progress before I sew the pieces together and stuff it,

Well, after I made the boy doll, I feel like to make two more - boy and girl. So I can make a little family doll, mom-dad and Eduardo. Sounds good :)

The only different thing I made is the shoe laces, I made horizontal line shoe laces. The original is cross line shoe laces

This post is the continuation of my weekly update DIY Friday and also, I am linking this post to Caroline for Show Off Saturday

Happy Sewing!

Thursday, June 4, 2015

Magam May: BurdaStyle Outfit # Monotone

Hi everyone..
I finished my MAGAM May outfit with the theme "Monotone".
After searched my stash and double checked my wardrobe, I decided to make wearable garments that  suits hot summer weather.
And here is my final outfit, high-waist skirt and sleeveless top,

Pattern :
BurdaStyle Ribbon Dress 03/2013  size 34. I hacked the dress pattern to separate pattern. I will explain more about my work in this outfit in the below post.

1 yard of medium cotton poplin in cream color
1 yard of knit cotton in white color
1.5 yards of lace in cream color
Fusible tape and invisible zipper for the skirt
and thread

Sewing Process:

----Sleeveless Top-----
Firstly, I copied the original bodice patterns. For the front bodice, I raised the middle neckline 5 cm and added the shoulder line at the neckline 3 cm and then drew a new line of the front neckline. I didn't used the darts. I just pass over the darts and make it as a loose bodice.
For the back bodice, I reduced the middle back 1/2 cm and added the shoulder line at the neckline 3 cm and then drew a new line of the back neckline. I removed the zipper and did the same thing for the darts. The back bodice is on fold, not two pieces anymore.
After that, I lengthen the bodice until the middle of my hips.

I cut the fabrics, knit fabric for inner top and lace fabric for outer top. Pin and sew both fabrics together. Sew all the raw edges using an overlocker sewing machine.

Pin and sew the front and back fabrics at the shoulder right sides together.
And then pin and sew the front and back fabrics in both sides, right sides together.
Folded the neckline 1 cm to the wrong side, pin and sew using twin needle.
Also folded the armhole 1 cm to the wrong side, pin and sew using twin needle. Press both finishing armhole and neckline with iron.
Hem the top 3 cm hem allowance, press with iron and done!

Here are  the results, front view with neckline-armhole and hem details. And back view with neckline and armhole details too

----High-Waist Skirt----
I made a wearable skirt muslin with normal waistline before and happy with how it turned out. So this time I want to try high-waist style.

I added 2 cm in both sides of the skirt front and back. Omitted the ribbons for the darts and added high-waistband 16 cm x waist measurement. In the end the waistband is 8 cm wide.
I pin and sew the darts - front and back.
Pin and sew the skirt at both sides right sides together.
Fuse fusible tape on the middle back of the skirt.
Pin and sew the waistband onto the skirt.
After that I sew the invisible zipper until the top of the waistband. Sew the remaining of the middle back skirt. Press with iron.
Pin and sew the hemline, 4 cm hem allowance. Press with iron. Done!

And here is a closer look of the front and back views. You can see that the darts are not straight, they are a little bit sideways. I love them :)

Well, before I say goodbye for today post, here are two more picture of me wearing my outfit, back and front views

Happy sewing!