Friday, February 27, 2015

MAGAM January : Double Breasted Plaid Jacket

Finally I made my plaid jacket! It was not an easy work, especially to match the plaids.
Actually, my jacket finished one week ago but I didn't have time to take pictures. I am planning to take outdoor pictures but the weather is not supporting my plans. Humid, foggy and the worst is there is no more cold here.
Anyway, the weather in Macau is unpredictable. Maybe we will have more cold to come and I will be lucky to wear my new jacket but if not, I will wear it next year :)

This is my second version of BurdaStyle wool jacket based on this pattern from 10/2013 #106 size 36. You can see my first version here My Wool Jacket In Grey Color.
I made the jacket same length as the first one with the following modification:
  • I changed the front jacket, from single breasted to double breasted. Finished with bound button-holes
  • Changed the back from two pieces of pattern to one piece
  • Shaped up the sleeves because it looks a little bit sloppy for my taste, omitted the shoulder darts and reduced the shoulder length.
Here is my flat sketches for double breasted jacket

2.5 yards of plaid wool blend, 2.5 yards of silk satin in deep blue for the lining, fusible interfacing, 8 big dark grey buttons, 1 medium dark grey button, self-made shoulder pads and thread.

Sewing Process:
  • Firstly, I have to work with the pattern. To create the double breasted, I added 7 cm at the front neckline. Then square down until the hemline.
  • After the front jacket pattern done, I worked on the back jacket pattern by put all the pattern pieces together - copy it in a new sheet of drawing paper and reduced the side jacket by draw a new line 2 cm from the hemline up to the waist.
  • Shaped up the sleeve pattern by reduced the amount of under sleeve pattern,  2 cm from the sleeve hem up to the elbow.
  • Reduced the shoulder length by shaping up the end of the shoulder 2 cm and draw a new line for the upper armhole.
After I have all the pattern pieces , I cut the fabrics, fashion fabric and lining fabric. Then sew all the pieces together.
I sew in-seam pocket same as my first jacket and sew the bound button-holes. MAGAM January theme is "to try something new" so, the bound button-hole is something new for me and I am glad to try it.
For in-seam pocket, I used this pocket pattern and for clear tutorial I followed this link. Here is my in-seam pocket in progress.

And for bound button-holes and facings, I followed this tutorial from Julia Bobbin. I love her tutorials, they are easy and clear to follow. Here is the look of my bound button-holes but sorry that I forgot to take picture of the facings.

The rest of sewing process is almost same as the previous jacket, it involved a lot of pinning - basting and pressing.
Well, I am not going to say more about the process. I will show you more pictures of the jacket and I hope you like it as much as I do :)

Here are the pictures of me wearing the jacket, front - side with in-seam pocket and perfectly match the plaids - and back views

The closer look of bound button-holes (left) and facings (right)

The jacket lining, front and back

And the last picture of the jacket in the dress form, front - side and back

If you are interested to join MAGAM, here is the link MAGAM Facebook Group

Happy sewing!

Sunday, February 22, 2015

DIY Friday : Accessories

Hello everyone,
I'd love to show you what I made last Friday. I made two cosmetic bags in big and small size, one pencil case, two sunglass cases and one small jewelry pouch.
Here they are...

Pattern and materials for the cosmetic bags and pencil case:
Pattern : Draft it yourself cosmetic bag followed with easy tutorial from Hannah In The House. 
Materials : fabric scraps - medium crepe in pink floral and deep pink, lining fabrics - printed cotton and wine color cotton, zippers and thread.
The sewing process was easy and fast, I measured directly on the fabric and cut them all.
For the big cosmetic bag I measured on the fabric 25 cm x 39 cm. For the small cosmetic bag I measured 18 cm x 26 cm. And for the pencil case 30 cm x 20 cm. All the sizes are including 1 cm seam allowances.
I sew lining for the big cosmetic bag and pencil case but I leave the small cosmetic bag without lining.
Well, I forgot to take pictures of my sewing process. If you are interested to make some, please feel free to click the link ~here~. You can make any size you want based on the tutorial.
Here the closer look of my bags and pencil case. I love the small one very much, it is really cute. I am planning to put my lipstick and small mirror. The big one will be very useful to put my cosmetics for travelling :)

And here is the closer look of the lining and the zipper. Wine color cotton for the big cosmetic bag and printed cotton for the pencil case.

Pattern and materials for sunglass cases:
Pattern : Draft it yourself sunglass cases from Amber - Crazy Little Projects.
Materials : Fabric scraps - medium crepe in floral and deep pink, lining fabric in printed cotton and wine color cotton, thread

The sewing process was easy and fast too, I have done two of them in 30 minutes. More detail of the process you can read Amber's tutorial ~here~

They are very cute isn't it? I think I am going to make some more :)

And the last little project is small jewelry pouch. I made it myself and I promise to publish the tutorial soon. I am planning to make some more variations. We will see...

Fabric scraps - medium crepe in deep pink color and printed cotton for lining, button and self-made loop, sewing thread and embroidery thread for top stitch the pouch.

Here are the closer look of the pouch, front - inside and back,

Happy crafting!

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Share In Style: Japanese Inspiration - BurdaStyle Poncho 12/2014

I am joining Share In Style hosted by Rosy - Sewingadicta and Mis Papelicos.
The topic for February 16th was Japanese Inspiration, I am already thinking about Mori girl style that is in the list of modern Japanese street style.
Mori means forest in Japanese, which the style concept is natural and earthly.

Well, I decided to use my boiled wool in green earthy color from stash and sew a lovely poncho based on BurdaStyle pattern.
After all, I am happy with how it turned out and it was fast and easy to make it. I am done in less than two hours.

Japanese Mori style

1.5 yards of boiled wool in green earthy color, self-made bias tape from knit fabric and same color of thread

Draft it yourself poncho from BurdaStyle 12/2014 size 34-38.

source from BurdaStyle 12/2014
Sewing process:
I mentioned above that the sewing process was fast and easy. I fold the fabric as the instruction said, measured directly on the wrong side of the fabric and cut it. The result looks like big square fabric with a hole in the middle.
Then I sew all the raw edges using an overlocked sewing machine. And then I folded 1.5 cm seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric and stitched it.
After that, I pin and sew the bias tape on the neck opening. Then topstitched the neckline using twin needle.

The last part was stitched the lower edge of the poncho, follow the marked line with the wrong sides of the fabric together. Done!

Here are some pictures of the finished poncho, front, side and back views


Until next..