Thursday, August 31, 2017

Asymmetrical Top with Bell Sleeve

Hello everyone,
I started a new top yesterday and glad I finished it this afternoon. I was planning to make it weeks ago but life has been busy and we got two typhoons in a week ( Hato and Pakhar), glad we are safe and I managed to finished my August Magam dress and this asymmetrical top. I decided to publish the top today and the dress later. But actually you can see the finished dress on my IG post two days ago.

I made this top especially to participate #sleevefest2017 on Instagram hosted by the two lovely ladies Helen of @valentine.and.stitch and Diane of

For the pattern, I used Simplicity Misses 8059 pattern view B with adjustments because I used size S instead of XXS. Also, added bell sleeve to match the challenge #sleevefest2017 and to celebrate #yearofthesleeve.
For the fabric, I decided to refashion my bathing cover that I wore during my mini holiday in Bangkok. The fabric is cotton jersey in pink colour.
I traced pattern view B size S finished with normal hem and I will cut the asymmetrical hem later directly on the top. 
As the neckline seems too deep for my liking, I raised the CF 3 cm and CB 1 cm then drew a new line of neckline for both front and back as shown in the second picture below.

After I did the half sewing process, I found out that the shoulder and both sides were too big. But the neckline was good and sit nicely 😁 I followed exactly the width and length the pattern had, but in the end I trimmed the excess fabric 0.75 mm.
I decided to pin and sew the darts at the shoulder 1.5 cm down to the waist front and back - I did for both sides.
Also, I sew the side of the top 1.25 cm from the sleeve to the bodice - I did for both sides too. 
After the two methods done, I am glad that the top fits me okay, not too big and not too tight.
For the bell sleeve, I used the same method of making the half circle skirt. I found an easy link to calculate the radius from By Hand London
After I got the radius and drew my own sleeve pattern, I cut the sleeve fabric 20 cm long included seam and sleeve allowances 1.25 cm.
Sew the both end right sides together. Pin the bell sleeve and the sleeve right sides together. Sew with the overlocker machine and sew the sleeve hem with sewing machine. 
Below are pictures of the process,
About the asymmetrical hemline, I decided to cut it after I almost finished the top. I measured according to the length that I think looks good on me. Then I sew the hem allowance 1.25 cm using sewing machine.
Well, after I spend the morning and afternoon working on this top, I am happy that I saved the top and will wear it in the coming autumn.
Happily showing you three more pictures of the top on me, front-back and side views. I wore it with me-made skirt based on Burdastyle 03/2013, skirt detail here.

Happy Sewing and thank you for reading!

Feel free to take a look of other sewists who participate Sleevefest2017 on Instagram with hashtag #sleevefest2017  I bet you will love it and find some inspiration for the next project 😍

Thursday, August 3, 2017

Waist Tie Dress

I managed to finish #magamsewalong June dress with theme "Seasonal Stashbuster" by the end of the month, but only today I have time to write a blog post.
I like the pattern since the day I found it about three years ago, but somehow I didn't have a chance to make it. I was lucky to found the Simplicity magazine Autumn 2014 during our visit to Portugal, the magazine is in Spanish but I can follow the pictures and tutorials easily.
I also saw other patterns such as tunic and jacket that I want to make in the future.

About the dress, fabric is printed anchors and dolphins in red colour, 2.5 yards from stash, bought in Bangkok last year.
Pattern based in Simplicity New Look Misses Dress 6224 with Sleeve Variations size 36 model C with neckbands model B. I only used the bodice and modified the dress to one piece. What I did,

  • I omitted the darts.
  • Reduced the shoulder width 3 cm finished with armholes with 1/2" bias tape from the same fabric.
  • I lengthen the bodice at the waist down to the hem 55 cm long and added few centimeters in both sides at the hemline to created a little A-line shape. I did for both front and back.
  • Added inseam pockets, pattern from my other dress.
  • Added two very long waist ties, 130 cm long x 6 cm wide that is enough to tie around my waist three times before I knot it.
  • 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges and 3 cm hem allowance.

Here you can see the dress without the waist tie, a very simple and loose a-line dress that I can actually wear as it is. But I like more with the waist tie style, it adds little volume and looks nicer to me 😍

The sewing process was faster than I thought. I did in ten hours including pattern tracing and muslin. I was so surprised that the armholes fit me fine in the muslin but not really in the real fabric. It was gaping, so quick decision I added dart 1 cm wide in both back armholes. Hope you can spot in the picture below at the bottom right.
And the rest of the processes were okay, as usual I fused fusible tape in both sides of the front holes and sew as the direction.
Then hand basted and gathered both sides of the front neckline, sew both front and back bodices at the shoulders and sew the neckband.

I love inseam pockets, I sewn them few centimeters below the waistline/waist ties. I always think that any practical dress will not be perfect without inseam pockets.
And the ties were made from the same fabric, it was easy to sew with little pointy at the end. I attached right on the waistline.

And the finished dress on Ellie my dress form, front and back views.

And glad I wore the dress few days ago to test it. We visited The Venetian' Macao for a walk and lunch. I saw that I place the tie in the opposite side as in the dress form. But anyway, I liked the dress and the loose fit of it.

That's it for today post, wishing you all a happy sewing and crafting 💗 I am knitting my UFO fair isle sweater lately, a very slow process but sure I will finished before winter come 😉 And also, at the moment I am sewing self-drafted swimsuits and hope to show you when I finished.


Hana @velvetribbon_sew


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