Saturday, July 25, 2015

Magam July - Gingham Dress

I was planning to make this dress for Magam June but I couldn't finish it on time. So, instead of planning another garment for July, I just continue working on this dress :) And I was lucky that July theme is "Sew Bookish", exactly like what I have been doing :)

This dress is my third versions of Built By Wendy Dirndl Dress with modification. The dress has a hole at the front, sleeveless, semi gathered skirt, in seam pockets and knee length. Just perfect for summer :)

Dirndl dress (Lolita) from Built By Wendy book size S. I added a hole in the front bodice and added in seam pockets borrowed from BurdaStyle pattern.

2 yards of gingham cotton fabric
invisible zipper
medium weight fusible interfacing for interfaced the holes
light weight fusible tape for interfaced the zipper
1/2" bias tape
elastic loop and small button

Sewing Process:
I copied the patterns and slashed the front bodice in two to make a hole by measured 6 cm from the center front. I curved a little the upper part and then for the below part, I shaped like a sweetheart shape.
I added lining on the upper part and added facing on the below part.
Then I made a muslin.
After muslin done, I tried it and found out that so many areas I need to adjust. The bodice was too long, so I have to reduce 2 cm.
I reduced the outer shoulder 1.5 cm and smooth it down to the armhole.
Also made the neckline bigger by reduced the inner shoulder 4 cm and center front 1 cm. And then I drew a new neckline. For the neckline and armhole, I used 0.75 cm seam allowances and 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
I added 6 cm for the skirt front and back to make it a little bit fuller.
I made sway back adjustment and reduced the skirt length 7 cm

After I had all the new adjustment, I cut the fabric and sew piece by piece as usual.
The only tricky part was sew the hole, I have to fuse medium weight fusible interfacing in upper bodice lining and below bodice facing. I was thinking that fusible interfacing will make the hole stay in place but apparently not.

For the skirt, I gathered and sew them onto the bodice right sides together. Then I sew the in seam pockets.
After that, I sew front and back bodice right sides together from the armhole along the way the in seam pocket down to the hemline. Here is the result,

After the pockets done, I worked on the invisible zipper. I fused the fusible tape on the wrong side of the center back and sew the zipper in the right side. Then sew the elastic loop in the right side on the top of the zipper.
Then I sew 1/2" bias tape along the neckline right sides together, fold it inside and topstitched. I did the same thing for the armholes. I sew the small button on the top of the zipper. Here is the closer look,

The last work was sew the hemline, iron it and done! :)

And here are some pictures of the final dress, I am loving it but I am a little bit disappointed with my work on the matching plaids - it wasn't good especially in the back side. But anyway... the dress is so comfortable to wear in hot summer day and it fits me just right, not too tight and not too loose :)

If any of you are interested to join our MAGAM group, you can pop over the link and join us. Make A Garment A Month
Happy sewing!


  1. Such a good idea to make a little peekaboo design in the front! Lovely gingham dress, very summery!

  2. I can only agree! The cut out gives your dress the little extra something. :-) It looks great on you and gingham is so very versatile.

  3. Your dress is fantastic! Great job!

  4. So cute.. and looks cute on you.. I love gingham check fabric..

  5. The peekaboo does look sweet. The entire style is very pretty, and as you say, just right for your hot, humid days. I can imagine your disappointment with the slightly mismatched checks, but when you are wearing it and moving around, it is going to be barely noticeable. Enjoy wearing it :)

    1. Glad that the checks are small :) Thank you, Sarah Liz. I am enjoying wearing it :)

  6. This is a lovely, fresh summer dress which you gave an additional interest with the peekaboo! I love the gingham and the colour. You worked everything so neatly and gave us good explications!

  7. Your dress turned out so lovely! I really like the hole detail and you chose a great fabric! :)

  8. A very lovely dress. Nice design changes and the gingham is cute.

  9. Hana, this is a wonderful summer dress and I am becoming an expert on styles for hot weather. No one will notice the mis match of the plaid as the pattern is so small. It's really cute on you!

  10. Dear Hana!
    This is a very nice dress, you look beautiful.
    I like this necklline.
    LG Carolin

  11. This looks really sweet; and perfectly fresh and cool for summer. I like the cut-out on the front; it makes it look a lot more interesting :)

  12. Lovely, lovely dress! You got the front keyhole cutout perfect!! Always enjoy reading your construction details and fantastic idea to sew/serge from the armhole all the way down to the hemline. Your pretty dress looks fresh and breezy for a hot summer's day. :)

  13. This is so summery and lovely. The keyhole neckline really brings it together. Superb!!

  14. Perfection! {So NOT noticing the slight pattern matching imperfection on the back!}

    This dress, in this darling print, is as fresh as the air after a summer rain!

    1. Thank you for so kind words Sue! I really feel that way :)

  15. What a lovely dress for summer. Gingham is one of my favourites, and you picked the perfect dress for it.x

    1. Thank you, Dawn. I needed this kind of dress for hot summer day :)

  16. Cute and cool for summer. I love it!

  17. Adorable dress! The keyhole design is perfect and gingham is right on trend!