I was planning to make this dress for Magam June but I couldn't finish it on time. So, instead of planning another garment for July, I just continue working on this dress :) And I was lucky that July theme is "Sew Bookish", exactly like what I have been doing :)
This dress is my third versions of Built By Wendy Dirndl Dress with modification. The dress has a hole at the front, sleeveless, semi gathered skirt, in seam pockets and knee length. Just perfect for summer :)
Dirndl dress (Lolita) from Built By Wendy book size S. I added a hole in the front bodice and added in seam pockets borrowed from BurdaStyle pattern.
2 yards of gingham cotton fabric
medium weight fusible interfacing for interfaced the holes
light weight fusible tape for interfaced the zipper
1/2" bias tape
elastic loop and small button
I copied the patterns and slashed the front bodice in two to make a hole by measured 6 cm from the center front. I curved a little the upper part and then for the below part, I shaped like a sweetheart shape.
I added lining on the upper part and added facing on the below part.
Then I made a muslin.
After muslin done, I tried it and found out that so many areas I need to adjust. The bodice was too long, so I have to reduce 2 cm.
I reduced the outer shoulder 1.5 cm and smooth it down to the armhole.
Also made the neckline bigger by reduced the inner shoulder 4 cm and center front 1 cm. And then I drew a new neckline. For the neckline and armhole, I used 0.75 cm seam allowances and 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
I added 6 cm for the skirt front and back to make it a little bit fuller.
I made sway back adjustment and reduced the skirt length 7 cm
After I had all the new adjustment, I cut the fabric and sew piece by piece as usual.
The only tricky part was sew the hole, I have to fuse medium weight fusible interfacing in upper bodice lining and below bodice facing. I was thinking that fusible interfacing will make the hole stay in place but apparently not.
For the skirt, I gathered and sew them onto the bodice right sides together. Then I sew the in seam pockets.
After that, I sew front and back bodice right sides together from the armhole along the way the in seam pocket down to the hemline. Here is the result,
After the pockets done, I worked on the invisible zipper. I fused the fusible tape on the wrong side of the center back and sew the zipper in the right side. Then sew the elastic loop in the right side on the top of the zipper.
Then I sew 1/2" bias tape along the neckline right sides together, fold it inside and topstitched. I did the same thing for the armholes. I sew the small button on the top of the zipper. Here is the closer look,
The last work was sew the hemline, iron it and done! :)
And here are some pictures of the final dress, I am loving it but I am a little bit disappointed with my work on the matching plaids - it wasn't good especially in the back side. But anyway... the dress is so comfortable to wear in hot summer day and it fits me just right, not too tight and not too loose :)
If any of you are interested to join our MAGAM group, you can pop over the link and join us. Make A Garment A Month