Midi Dress With Puff Sleeves And Front Tie

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Hi there, today's post is about a new dress I sewed last month. It's a midi-style dress with puff sleeves and a front tie. I made this dress to wear to a special dinner. For the pattern: I lengthened my selfdrafted v-neck dress into midi length. And for the fabric, I used a linen blend in green color. I bought the fabric in Bangkok during my summer holiday in August. The dress pattern had 6 pieces, front and back darts and I fused the facings with fusible interfacing. As usual, the sewing process was relaxing and it finished faster than I planned. The picture below shows the process of sewing the zipper, I pinned it before sewing it using the zipper foot. To make the puff sleeves, I gathered the sleeves before pinning and sewing them to the armhole.  After attaching the sleeves, I sewed the sleeve allowance 1 cm and the hem allowance 1.5 cm. And then, I pinned the neckline before top-stitching it. I decided
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MAGAM March: 50's Inspiration Mint Dress

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Hi everyone..
Finally I finished my mint dress for Make A Garment A Month - March. This dress has princess seams, round neckline, short sleeves and fully gathered skirt with finished zipper at the back. 



Pattern and alteration:
I used two BurdaStyle patterns for this dress, pattern from 01/2013 for the bodice and sleeves and pattern from 09/2014 for the skirt.
As the minimum size of the two patterns are 36, I have to grade down to 34. I also made some changes on the neckline, omitted the collar and change the 3/4 sleeves to a short sleeves

Materials:
2 yards of printed crepe in mint color, jersey net in white color for bodice lining, invisible zipper, small vintage button and thread.

Sewing Process:
After I grade down the patterns to size 34, I made the bodice with sleeve muslin. I tried the muslin and found out that the sleeve was too tight.
I added 4 cm to allow my upper arm to move freely. In this case, I draw a new sleeve pattern and spread in four. Then added 1 cm in each line.

As I want the round neckline,  I reduced the neckline at the shoulder 2 cm for both front and back and then measured 4.5 cm in the center front of the neckline and 4 cm in the center back. After that, I created a new line for round neckline.

I cut the 3/4 sleeve to a short sleeve 16 cm long with finished sleeve hem 1.5 cm.

For the skirt, I reduced the length 10 cm with finished hem 1.5 cm.

I also added belt loops in each side of the dress, self-made from white thread.

After all the long process, here are more pictures of the dress detail - princess seams with darts, closer look of the round neckline and back view of the dress with invisible zipper finished with a vintage button and a loop closer.
A little note : the back view wasn't match perfectly at the middle - between the skirt and the bodice but I don't feel like to remove and sew it again. I will cover it with the belt :)



One more picture of the dress with petticoat. You can see the detail in my last post - DIY Friday - Petticoat

And here is the picture of me wearing it

Happy sewing! 

Comments

  1. UnknownApril 13, 2015 at 1:25 PM

    Very pretty Hana. Looks even better on you than it does on the dressform. Thank you for sharing that the bodice and skirt do not fit exactly at the centre back but you can live with it by covering it with a belt. I find it's too easy to focus in on the imperfections of things I have made but the fact is no one else notices except for me and simply things like wearing a belt not only hide the problem but make a better garment.

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    Replies
    1. Hana April 13, 2015 at 11:37 PM

      Thank you, Tracy. I was mad when I saw the imperfection on the back, but anyway... I let it go and found the belt solution :) :)

      Delete
  2. KathySApril 13, 2015 at 1:27 PM

    I love your pretty dress, Hana. The fabric is so fresh and spring like and the style suits you beautifully.

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    Replies
    1. Hana April 13, 2015 at 11:38 PM

      Thank you, Kathy. I love the color very much and now time to search my stash for April garment :)

      Delete
  3. UnknownApril 13, 2015 at 2:59 PM

    Beautiful dress Hana, very pretty fabric. I'm intrigued by the darts on a princess seam - never seen that before x

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    Replies
    1. Hana April 13, 2015 at 11:42 PM

      Thank you, Amanda. BurdaStyle sometime have unusual pattern and I also never seen that darts before.
      After sewn this dress, I feel that the darts added more volume on the front bodice :)

      Delete
  4. LisaApril 13, 2015 at 7:40 PM

    What a lovely, pretty dress! Your alterations and modifications all came together for a perfect fit.

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    Replies
    1. Hana April 13, 2015 at 11:43 PM

      Thank you for such a lovely comment, Lisa :)

      Delete
  5. Stars ThreadsApril 13, 2015 at 11:10 PM

    This is a gorgeous dress. Great job. Now I need to read the petticoat post.

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    Replies
    1. Hana April 13, 2015 at 11:43 PM

      Thank you, Stars. Can not wait to see your finished April garment :)

      Delete
  6. The Winter~QueenApril 14, 2015 at 3:13 AM

    Oh Hana that is just so lovely. And I am glad that you added the photo of you wearing it because it really shows to full potential.
    If you are interested, I use this method for invisible zip. I find it helps when needing to match up seams.
    http://lladybird.com/2014/01/28/invisible-zippers-my-method/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hana April 14, 2015 at 9:51 AM

      Thank you for a lovely comment and thanks for the link. I will check it out :)

      Delete
  7. SueC56April 14, 2015 at 6:55 AM

    Lovely. Thanks for taking the time to share.

    Sue C

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  8. Sew Blessed Maw [Judy]April 14, 2015 at 10:50 AM

    Hana this dress is beautiful.. It looks so pretty on you. and fits perfect!!!
    The fabric is lovely too. Happy sewing.

    ReplyDelete
  9. UnknownApril 16, 2015 at 3:33 AM

    What a wonderful dress. You really look very beautiful!
    LG Carolin

    ReplyDelete
  10. SewingfunthingsApril 16, 2015 at 10:37 PM

    You wear it well. Love the new mint color fabric.

    ReplyDelete
  11. UnknownApril 19, 2015 at 9:24 PM

    So very pretty -- love the petticoat. You look fabulous!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Sarah LizApril 20, 2015 at 5:55 AM

    What a lovely dress - inside and out, beautifully finished. I love the petticoat - you must feel special when you wear this.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hana April 22, 2015 at 9:40 AM

      Thank you, Sarah Liz. I really feel special :) :)

      Delete
  13. LovenickyApril 27, 2015 at 10:42 AM

    This looks so beautiful on you - the shape, the fit, the fabric. You look amazing!

    ReplyDelete

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