Friday, June 26, 2015

Magam June Part 1 : Pleated Hem Batik Dress

Hi everyone...
I mentioned in my facebook post that I will be making four garments for June Magam with theme " Stashbuster" and here is my first garment,


I was planning to make the dress with a hole at neckline and pleated hem but the hole didn't turn out well. So I have to cover the hole with a bib and sew eight buttons for accessory. I will explain more about the unsuccessful hole in the below post.

Materials:
I bought this batik in Kuta - Bali almost two years ago. The fabric already cut in a big rectangle with 1.8 yards long finished with rolled hemmed in both sides. I think the fabric is ready for beach cover or even tablecloth :)
The reason why I bought it because the length is enough to make a simple dress and the print is so beautiful. I especially love both end of the fabrics,
Beside the fabric, I also need invisible zipper, fusible tape, 9 small buttons, elastic for button loop, fusible interfacing, 1/2'' self-made bias tape from same fabric and thread

Pattern:
BurdaStyle Jamie Shift Dress size 34 modified with pleated hem.
I cut the dress bodice 62 cm long and pleated hem 109 cm wide x 19 cm long, I added 1.5 cm seam allowances in all edges.
The neckline finished with bias tape sewn in the wrong side and added a bib in center front with eight buttons.
The back dress finished with invisible zipper and small button and loop closer.

The picture below shows my plan that didn't turn out well. I supposed to make a hole at the front neckline as shown in my flat sketch but I cut the hole a little bit big with the shape of triangle. The final result is not nice, the hole didn't laid flat and looks strange to me :(
Then I made a quick decision, I cover the hole with the same fabric. Problem solved!

You can see that the hole is a little bit big. Too bad! I think I should reduced 1 cm in all edges and make key hole, not triangle.

To cover the hole, I cut the fabric and fusible interfacing 40 cm long and 10 cm wide with 1 cm seam allowances in all edges. Fused the fusible in the wrong side of the fabric and folded the fabric wrong sides together.
Placed the fabric ( I called bib) in the center front with folded line at the neckline. Pin and basted the bib as shown in the picture below.
 Then sew along the edges 1/2 cm. Removed the basting. Press with iron
 And here is the wrong side of the bib. Looks awful but what can I do :)
After that, I sew eight buttons on the bib. As shown in the picture. The buttons are small printed with green gingham, so cute.
 I also sew the button and loop closer on the top of the zipper. I hope you can see it

For the pleated hem. I cut two pieces of the fabric 109 cm long and 19 cm wide, added 1.5 cm seam allowances.
I sew the two pieces right sides together. Sew the raw edges using an overlocker sewing machine.
Pleated along the hem 1 cm in each pleat and pin. It consumed time to did that but the result is lovely :)
Then sew the pleats. Sew the raw edge using an overlocker sewing machine. Sew the hem 1 cm hem allowance. Press the pleats down to hem with iron.
 Here are the finished pleats and hem. Right and wrong sides


And the last two pictures of the dress in the hanger. Front and back views


This dress is my fifth version of Jamie Shift Dress, here are my previous dresses based on the same pattern.
First version, Color Block Dress
Second version, Polka Dots Dress
Third version, Floral Shift Dress
Forth version, Vintage Modern Batik Dress

Happy sewing!

24 comments:

  1. Woo Hoo! Good Save Hana! Impressive that you were able to totally match the pattern! {From the photo, the triangle cut out looks lovely too, but probably just not a flattering placement for your small frame?} The really star is the pleated skirt portion!!! I love this feature and how you utilized the print!

    I was able to zoom in and appreciate the gingham buttons too! It was fun looking at the previous versions...shows us all how versatile a simple sheath dress pattern can be. Of course, the polka dot one is my favourite!

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    1. Thank you sweet lady. I think the hole should be smaller and thinner. I will try to make muslin to see the result :)

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  2. I love the fabric and how you show off the prints with the pleated hem. So awesome! I thought the cut out looked fine. But you obviously know what you like. Such a fun and feminine dress!

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  3. What a great job you have done. The pleating is very professional looking. I like seeing all the different versions you have made of this dress. It shows how versatile a well fitted pattern can be. I don't have a favourite they all look lovely on you and so different from each other.

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    1. Thank you, Tracy :) I think the pattern is flattering for petite figure. So simple and easy to modified but too bad that it doesn't come with sleeves.

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  4. Cute dress Hana! I really like the cutout. But I can see how it may have been a bit too bit for you. The pleated skirt is great and such a perfect way to use the fabric print!

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    1. Thank you dear. Well, I will be making a test for the hole and hope I can get the right shape and size :)

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  5. Beautiful that dress! I'm impressed with how you saved it! This bib totally looks like you've done that on purpose! I also like the fabric a lot! Great job :)

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    1. Thank you, Katharina. I love the fabric too very much :)

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  6. Beautiful dress! I especially like the way you used the fabric print in the pleating. The pleats are gorgeous! Those along with your button detail, take this dress from 'ordinary' to 'special'. Lovely! :)

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  7. I agree with you, the ends of the fabric are so lovely - and your pleating technique really works with this. I also think the little bib is an improvement - it goes with the lines of the dress more - I think the triangle just fought the pattern and the shape of the dress. The rectangle shape of the bib goes with the rectangle shift shape and the rectangle pleated strip. Very lovely :)

    And you are going to have a very busy June stashbusting - are you also in Pattern Review's stashbuster?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Sarah Liz, thank you. The triangle wasn't work and I am trying to make another version with smaller size. I have been busy with stashbusting and hurry up to complete all of the garments :)

      I am not in Pattern Review, maybe I will take a look later :)

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  8. Lovely dress. I love the pleating detail. The bib looks good too and was a very creative save.

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  9. Pity the keyhole didn't work, as it was a nice feature, but you pulled it back so well. what a great save! And that pleated hem... wow I love it! Beautiful dress Hana :)x

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, Dawn. It was a mistake about the keyhole, lesson learned :)

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  10. This is a really nice dress! I love how you used the border print and sewing the cute little buttons totally saved the thing. It looks like intention and a design feature! Have a nice day, SaSa

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    1. Thank you SaSa. Have a nice day to you too :)

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  11. Your dress is really nice! I love how you used the border print. It looks both smart and also pretty for casual wear too :)

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  12. Lovely dress! I love the pattern. It's always such a relief if you manage to save a piece successfully! And with the green print you chose a beautiful fabric. I hope you enjoy wearing it and that it feels as cool as it looks.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, Kathrin. Yes, I am enjoy wearing it :)

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