Midi Dress With Puff Sleeves And Front Tie

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Hi there, today's post is about a new dress I sewed last month. It's a midi-style dress with puff sleeves and a front tie. I made this dress to wear to a special dinner. For the pattern: I lengthened my selfdrafted v-neck dress into midi length. And for the fabric, I used a linen blend in green color. I bought the fabric in Bangkok during my summer holiday in August. The dress pattern had 6 pieces, front and back darts and I fused the facings with fusible interfacing. As usual, the sewing process was relaxing and it finished faster than I planned. The picture below shows the process of sewing the zipper, I pinned it before sewing it using the zipper foot. To make the puff sleeves, I gathered the sleeves before pinning and sewing them to the armhole.  After attaching the sleeves, I sewed the sleeve allowance 1 cm and the hem allowance 1.5 cm. And then, I pinned the neckline before top-stitching it. I decided
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First Version Of Burda T-Shirt 06/2008

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I am so happy that I finally made a t-shirt. It was a very fun project to make and I am so surprised that making it was not scary at all :)

My June Magam plan is making an outfit (white knit t-shirt and floral skirt) - I am working on the skirt now and as I am not sure about the t-shirt pattern, I tried to make it first with another fabric. So, I will not ruin the white knit fabric if the t-shirt didn't came out well.
I use the left over fabric from my husband pajama shorts, it's knit cotton in dark blue color and I decided to top stitch the t-shirt with orange thread around the neckline, armholes, sleeves hem and hem line. This idea came out suddenly during sewing and I think this t-shirt will match with my orange skirt. And the result, as shown in the picture above is just lovely and perfect for everyday wear :)

More details of the t-shirt,
Pattern and modification :
Burda t-shirt pattern 06/2008 - 113 size 34. Sorry I couldn't find the link about it. I had the magazine in Spanish edition.
As I mentioned in the last post, the minimum size of the pattern is 38. So, I have to draw the new pattern lines by myself. I decided to use size 36 but in the end I used size 34. Even so, I still need to reduced both side of the top 1 cm and make the front neck a little bit higher 1 cm.
I also decided to cut the sleeves length a little bit shorter about 3 cm and finished the sleeves hem 2 cm.
For the neckline, I used pattern 114. I added the neckband and sew it around the neckline. And for the t-shirt hem, I just fold the hem line and sew it - I used 3 cm hem allowance. The original pattern with elastic inserted in the hem line didn't look good on me, so I decided to use the normal hem line.
Here is the original pattern from Burda 06/2008 - 113 and 114,

Materials:
Knit cotton fabric in dark blue color from the left over fabric - more or less 1.5 yards, fusible interfacing to replace the stay tape - I use it for the shoulder line and threads - in dark blue color and orange color for top stitching.

Sewing process:
  • I cut the fashion fabric and change my sewing machine needle with ballpoint needle. 
  • Sew the front and back pieces right sides together at the shoulder, then sew the sleeve to the armhole. After that, I sew the sleeve hem and then top stitch the armhole line and the sleeve hem at the hem allowance using twin needle and orange tread. I followed this tutorial on how to use a twin needle, here is the link of the video from stitchless tv
  • Sew the front and back t-shirt right sides together at the side, starting from the sleeve under down to the body and the end of the t-shirt.
  • Sew the neckband onto the neckline, I followed this easy tutorial from craftstylish.com. Here is the link How to sew classic t-shirt neckband. And then top stitch around the neckline using the twin needle and orange thread. The result of my neckline is not so perfect, as you can see the neckband didn't lay flat but I'll try to find the right solution later on the second t-shirt.
  • Fold the hem line 3 cm, sew it and top stitch using the twin needle and orange thread. Done!
The picture below is the finishes neckline and sleeves,

And the finishes hem line, right side and wrong side.

And some more pictures of t-shirt front and back views,




I really love my new t-shirt and can not wait to make another as soon as I finish the floral skirt. I also have done some other projects but still too busy to take pictures. I will try my best to photograph it and publish them here.

Happy sewing!

Comments

  1. UnknownJune 27, 2014 at 9:11 PM

    I love the contrast stitching! It is fabulous. Also, thanks for all the details with your sewing process -- I enjoyed.

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    Replies
    1. Hana June 27, 2014 at 11:31 PM

      So glad that you enjoyed it. I love the contrast stitching too and I think it made the plain t-shirt more lively :)

      Delete
  2. The Sewing CPAJune 28, 2014 at 12:37 AM

    That looks gorgeous, Hana. The contrast stitching was a great idea. The t-shirt looks great with the orange skirt. You are such a great seamstress, your work is always neat and beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Sue @ A Colourful CanvasJune 28, 2014 at 2:11 AM

    Oooh, I totally love the contrasting stitching Hana! What a great t-shirt! I feel like we've both opened Pandora's Box with our new mad t-shirt sewing skillz!

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    Replies
    1. Hana June 29, 2014 at 4:22 PM

      I love it too, Sue. I finally realize that sewing a t-shirt is much easier than sewing a dress :-)

      Delete
  4. SewingadictaJune 28, 2014 at 4:48 AM

    Wow!! That´s wonderful!! This shirt has gone from being a muslin to test the pattern to be a fun shirt, perfect for your orange skirt. Love the contrast stitching!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Sarah LizJune 28, 2014 at 11:27 AM

    It is perfect to wear with the orange skirt - perfect contrast. It's always risky doing contrast stitching - especially around corners, but you have managed perfectly. the finished t-shirt looks a lot nicer than the Burda sketch. So it looks as though you have a pattern to use again now :)

    By the way, that outfit looks gorgeous in the setting you have chosen, which also has a lot of blue and orange :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hana June 29, 2014 at 4:33 PM

      Thank you Sarah Liz. Yes, the original pattern look boxy and I think my version without elastic is much flattering :)

      And hehe... Me and my husband are loving orange and blue, so there are a lot of things in the house based in that color :-)

      Delete
  6. UnknownJune 28, 2014 at 12:29 PM

    What an excellent idea to use contrast thread. Orange looks great with the blue and the top goes perfectly with the skirt

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    Replies
    1. Hana June 29, 2014 at 4:35 PM

      Thank you Tracy. I was surprised that blue and orange match perfectly :)

      Delete
  7. AnonymousJune 28, 2014 at 10:43 PM

    Love your tee Hana. Adding the orange details was an excellent idea.. and looks so pretty with your orange skirt.. Can't wait to see your floral skirt.. Happy sewing.

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    Replies
    1. Hana June 29, 2014 at 4:38 PM

      Thank you Judy. I am not sewing during the weekend, I have a lot of things to do. Tomorrow... I will be back to sewing my floral skirt after I put the kid to school :)

      Delete
  8. Daisy Creates in SussexJune 29, 2014 at 9:51 PM

    Nice T shirt Hana, particularly the way the sleeves are set in and the contrast stitch in orange.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hana July 7, 2014 at 11:25 PM

    Hi Kyla, thank you so much :) I will pop over your blog soon :)

    ReplyDelete

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