Friday, February 27, 2015

MAGAM January : Double Breasted Plaid Jacket

Hello..
Finally I made my plaid jacket! It was not an easy work, especially to match the plaids.
Actually, my jacket finished one week ago but I didn't have time to take pictures. I am planning to take outdoor pictures but the weather is not supporting my plans. Humid, foggy and the worst is there is no more cold here.
Anyway, the weather in Macau is unpredictable. Maybe we will have more cold to come and I will be lucky to wear my new jacket but if not, I will wear it next year :)

Pattern:
This is my second version of BurdaStyle wool jacket based on this pattern from 10/2013 #106 size 36. You can see my first version here My Wool Jacket In Grey Color.
I made the jacket same length as the first one with the following modification:
  • I changed the front jacket, from single breasted to double breasted. Finished with bound button-holes
  • Changed the back from two pieces of pattern to one piece
  • Shaped up the sleeves because it looks a little bit sloppy for my taste, omitted the shoulder darts and reduced the shoulder length.
Here is my flat sketches for double breasted jacket

Materials:
2.5 yards of plaid wool blend, 2.5 yards of silk satin in deep blue for the lining, fusible interfacing, 8 big dark grey buttons, 1 medium dark grey button, self-made shoulder pads and thread.

Sewing Process:
  • Firstly, I have to work with the pattern. To create the double breasted, I added 7 cm at the front neckline. Then square down until the hemline.
  • After the front jacket pattern done, I worked on the back jacket pattern by put all the pattern pieces together - copy it in a new sheet of drawing paper and reduced the side jacket by draw a new line 2 cm from the hemline up to the waist.
  • Shaped up the sleeve pattern by reduced the amount of under sleeve pattern,  2 cm from the sleeve hem up to the elbow.
  • Reduced the shoulder length by shaping up the end of the shoulder 2 cm and draw a new line for the upper armhole.
After I have all the pattern pieces , I cut the fabrics, fashion fabric and lining fabric. Then sew all the pieces together.
I sew in-seam pocket same as my first jacket and sew the bound button-holes. MAGAM January theme is "to try something new" so, the bound button-hole is something new for me and I am glad to try it.
For in-seam pocket, I used this pocket pattern and for clear tutorial I followed this link. Here is my in-seam pocket in progress.

And for bound button-holes and facings, I followed this tutorial from Julia Bobbin. I love her tutorials, they are easy and clear to follow. Here is the look of my bound button-holes but sorry that I forgot to take picture of the facings.

The rest of sewing process is almost same as the previous jacket, it involved a lot of pinning - basting and pressing.
Well, I am not going to say more about the process. I will show you more pictures of the jacket and I hope you like it as much as I do :)

Here are the pictures of me wearing the jacket, front - side with in-seam pocket and perfectly match the plaids - and back views



The closer look of bound button-holes (left) and facings (right)

The jacket lining, front and back

And the last picture of the jacket in the dress form, front - side and back

If you are interested to join MAGAM, here is the link MAGAM Facebook Group


Happy sewing!

19 comments:

  1. Well done Hana your coat is gorgeous. The double breasted style really suits you. I'm really impressed with you plaid matching. It will be a shame if you do not get chance to wear it before the season chances.

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    1. Thank you, Tracy. Working on plaids wasn't easy and it takes a long time to finish :)

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  2. I'm with Tracy! It is a very flattering silhouette for you Hana! And such lovely attention to detail! The use of the plaid in the pocket openings is very smart, and I will definitely use that technique. I'm just finishing a similar Burda coat, bound buttonholes too! I made mine out of a lighter fabric so I will get some wear out of it before summer. Your coat is sure to be something to look forward to for next winter!

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    1. Thank you, Sue. I am planning to make a lighter jacket for spring. Can not wait to see your version - I am sure will be fabulous :)

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  3. What a lovely coat Hana. And I prefer the double breasted style on you. Great job on those bound buttonholes, they finish the coat off perfectly! If you were in the UK, you'd be wearing it daily with hat, scarf and gloves!! It's still very cold here! :) xx

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    1. Thank you, Dawn! I am so surprised that my bound button-holes turned out fine. I know that in the UK is still very cold, stay warm my friend :)

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  4. Hana, your coat is beautiful.. and looks so pretty on you.. The fit is great and the matching of the plaids look perfect...
    Happy sewing.

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    1. Thank you, Judy. I hope your spring garments will be done soon, can not wait to see them :)

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  5. Your coat is so beautiful. I didn't realize that there was so much work involved. The matching of the plaid was great. It looks like a piece of classic garment that will never go out of style. Great job!

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  6. I love your coat. While I am sure this was a ton of work to make, I think you will be glad you invested the time because you will reap years of enjoyment from wearing this beauty. As to not being able to wear it now, when I have done this in the past on a garment, it was an even greater pleasure wearing it the next year as by then I had forgotten all the grief of sewing it. I hope you enjoy your coat for many years to come.

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    1. Hi Nadine. I am glad you love it and thank you for sweet comment :)

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  7. I thought I'd seen that jacket before :). What a job, matching the plaid - and getting the jacket to sit nicely as well, never easy with a double breasted jacket. And I agree with everyone, a perfect, simple style which suits you nicely and doesn't overwhelm you.

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    1. Hi Sarah Liz, the style of this jacket is almost same as my first coat that I made three years ago. The matching plaids was a pain and this type of jacket was taking really a long time to finished it. I'll plans better next time :)

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  8. What a incredible coat! The inside is especially lovely. Your loving craftsmanship really shines here.

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    1. Thank you Annie. I am so flattered :)

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  9. Your coat looks very nice. It was worth all of the work, especially taking time to create the double breast.

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    1. Thank you, Dorothy. Double breast is quite tricky, especially to match the closure.

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  10. what a fabulous coat! I really like the cut and the pattern...and it suits you perfectly<3
    well done!
    http://modaodaradosti.blogspot.com/

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