MAGAM January : Double Breasted Plaid Jacket

Hello..
Finally I made my plaid jacket! It was not an easy work, especially to match the plaids.
Actually, my jacket finished one week ago but I didn't have time to take pictures. I am planning to take outdoor pictures but the weather is not supporting my plans. Humid, foggy and the worst is there is no more cold here.
Anyway, the weather in Macau is unpredictable. Maybe we will have more cold to come and I will be lucky to wear my new jacket but if not, I will wear it next year :)

Pattern:
This is my second version of BurdaStyle wool jacket based on this pattern from 10/2013 #106 size 36. You can see my first version here My Wool Jacket In Grey Color.
I made the jacket same length as the first one with the following modification:

• I changed the front jacket, from single breasted to double breasted. Finished with bound button-holes
• Changed the back from two pieces of pattern to one piece
• Shaped up the sleeves because it looks a little bit sloppy for my taste, omitted the shoulder darts and reduced the shoulder length.

Here is my flat sketches for double breasted jacket

Materials:
2.5 yards of plaid wool blend, 2.5 yards of silk satin in deep blue for the lining, fusible interfacing, 8 big dark grey buttons, 1 medium dark grey button, self-made shoulder pads and thread.

Sewing Process:

• Firstly, I have to work with the pattern. To create the double breasted, I added 7 cm at the front neckline. Then square down until the hemline.
• After the front jacket pattern done, I worked on the back jacket pattern by put all the pattern pieces together - copy it in a new sheet of drawing paper and reduced the side jacket by draw a new line 2 cm from the hemline up to the waist.
• Shaped up the sleeve pattern by reduced the amount of under sleeve pattern,  2 cm from the sleeve hem up to the elbow.
• Reduced the shoulder length by shaping up the end of the shoulder 2 cm and draw a new line for the upper armhole.

After I have all the pattern pieces , I cut the fabrics, fashion fabric and lining fabric. Then sew all the pieces together.
I sew in-seam pocket same as my first jacket and sew the bound button-holes. MAGAM January theme is "to try something new" so, the bound button-hole is something new for me and I am glad to try it.
For in-seam pocket, I used this pocket pattern and for clear tutorial I followed this link. Here is my in-seam pocket in progress.

And for bound button-holes and facings, I followed this tutorial from Julia Bobbin. I love her tutorials, they are easy and clear to follow. Here is the look of my bound button-holes but sorry that I forgot to take picture of the facings.

The rest of sewing process is almost same as the previous jacket, it involved a lot of pinning - basting and pressing.
Well, I am not going to say more about the process. I will show you more pictures of the jacket and I hope you like it as much as I do :)

Here are the pictures of me wearing the jacket, front - side with in-seam pocket and perfectly match the plaids - and back views

The closer look of bound button-holes (left) and facings (right)

The jacket lining, front and back

And the last picture of the jacket in the dress form, front - side and back

If you are interested to join MAGAM, here is the link MAGAM Facebook Group


Happy sewing!