MAGAM November - Black Linen BurdaStyle Jacket

Hello everyone...
I am late for posting my November garment for MAGAM challenge. As usual I was busy with some stuff and then I went out for mini vacation to Bangkok - Thailand with my family. So, only today I manage to updating the blog :)

Actually, I finished the jacket on time. I wore it two times and I love it. The jacket is so comfortable and easy to wear with anything. The style is just perfect for my taste - not too boxy and not too tight.
Too bad that in the pictures you can not see the details of the jacket because the color is black. But trust me, this jacket is really cute. And even cuter because I used vintage buttons :)

Also, I chose the linen fabric because I want a light jacket that is perfect to wear in not so cold weather.

Pattern:
I used BurdaStyle Jacket Pattern 09/2014 size 36 with alterations. I made the jacket length longer 10 cm and moved the pockets little bit lower than the original pattern 5 cm.
I shorten the sleeves length 8 cm and made the whole jacket with same fabric - no contrasting fabric (leather) as the original pattern had.
Also, I sewn four buttons instead of three because I lengthen the jacket.


Image source 

Materials:
2 yards of black linen (the left over fabric from this skirt), 2 yards of gingham check fabric (poly-cotton blend) for the lining, fusible interfacing, four vintage buttons, grey ready made bias tape and same color of threads

Sewing Process:
I made two muslins, the first one didn't turn so well. The sleeves was too tight. Then I adjusted the sleeves and made the second muslin (picture below).

After I have done the muslin, I started work with the jacket by cut all the pieces, pin it and stitch it with sewing machine and a lot of hand sewn for finishing the lining.

 

It was a slow project but I am happy with how it turned out. I didn't find any problem during sewing this jacket, I like BurdaStyle pattern and I used to work with it. Most of their pattern are good for my petite size with little adjustments/alterations. The only thing that I want to say is their instructions, sometime not so clear but I can deal with my self-taught. So, for beginner sewist it might be a little difficult to work with.

 

Well, here is step by step of my work on the jacket : 

• I sew front darts, back jacket pieces together, sew the sleeves pieces together, fused fusible interfacing onto the collar and then sew the collar.
• After that sew the front and back jacket at the shoulder and the sides, right sides together. Then sew the sleeve onto the jacket body.
• Sew the pockets and attached it on the jacket body.
• Sew the bias tape on the front facings and the neck facing. 
• Sew the front lining darts, the back lining pieces together and the sleeves lining pieces together.
• Sew the front facing and the front lining together, so the area with bias tape is in between the facing and the lining. I did the same for the neck facing, sew it to the back lining.
• Sew the front lining and the back lining at the shoulder and the sides, right sides together. And then attached the sleeves onto the body lining. 
• Then attached the lining to the jacket. By putting the jacket and the lining right sides together. Pin the collar in between the jacket and the lining. Pin the lining and the jacket, and then sew it.
• Trim the edges using a scissor and turn the jacket inside out.
• After that, I make sure that the lining is sit right in any edges of the jacket. Then hem the lining in the jacket body using hand stitch.
• The last work, sew the button holes and buttons. Done!

Some more pictures the jacket, but sorry for the amount of wrinkles in the sleeves. I used linen fabric that is very easy to get wrinkles..

 

Have a great Friday and happy sewing to you all!