Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Plantain T-shirt Deer And Doe

Hello,
I finished the two Plantain t-shirts for Magam challenge January "Sew New Start". This two t-shirts are my first make in 2017, I decided to sew basic top because I realised that I still need some of this for my wardrobe. Besides basic top I still need basic bottoms (skirts and pants) as well, so my general plan for 2017 is to sew more basic garments.

Below pictures are the finished t-shirts, green colour is the real one and grey colour is the wearable muslin. Before I continue, I want to mention here that I decided to make this Plantain t-shirts after I saw Lisa's version some months back. You can see her pretty Plantains over her blog at Lisa's Carolina Handmade.

Pattern detail and adjustment:
Free pattern Plantain t-shirt Deer and Doe long sleeves view A size 36. I decided to raised the center front neckline 2.5 cm because I fear the neckline will be too low. I had this experience in some of the patterns.
After raised the CF, I drew a new line of the neckline and left the back neck as it is. And as I raised the front neckline 2.5 cm, I reduced the neckline band 2.5 cm.
I added ease on both front and back bodices 1 cm and both sides of the sleeve 1 cm.
Also, I omitted the elbow patches and following the rest as the original pattern.

Fabrics:
Both my fabrics are jersey knit, I found them on sale in the local shop. I bought the green colour 3 yards and grey colour 2 yards. I still have a lot left over from both that is enough to make another garments in the future.

The sewing process was fast, I did two t-shirts in eight hours. It started as usual, sew front back bodice at the shoulder right sides together.
Attached the sleeves to the bodices and sew both sides right sides together. After that, I sew the neckline band right sides together, pin and sew carefully to the neckline. Then top stitched the band with twin needle and trimmed the excess fabric.
And the last part, sew the sleeves and hemline with twin needle 1.5 cm.
I was so happy that the wearable muslin turned out nice and I don't need to make another adjustment for the real t-shirt 😃


I loved the finished t-shirts. The pattern is so easy to work with and I see so many possibilities from it. I can make it as a simple dress by lengthen the pattern. I can make turtleneck t-shirt or boat-neck t-shirt . Or I can make a short sleeve or sleeveless t-shirt to wear in the summer.
Besides that, this t-shirt has a little bit flare style at the bottom and I think it is great idea to hide the little tummy 😀

Here are more pictures of me wearing it, front - side and back views. Pictures taken during the Chinese New Year celebration.




Wishing everyone the best of luck in the year of the Rooster!

Love,
Hana

Wednesday, January 25, 2017

Oversize Coat

Hi.. Hope everyone have a lovely day and a happy sewing 😊
Today, a new blog update is about my latest oversize coat based on Burdastyle pattern 08/2014. I finished this coat two weeks ago, wore it already and love how it turned out.
The coat is so cosy and roomy, kind of menswear style with deep lapels and inseam pockets, finished with two snap buttons and big buttons for decoration.

For the fabric, I used 3 yards of wool blend in greyish green and 3 yards of silk lining in greyish pink that I bought recently in my short trip to Bangkok. I still have a leftover fabric from both that is enough to make a pencil skirt or tote bag. In the final calculation, I think 2.5 yards is enough for petite figure 😊
Also, I am so glad that I chose lighter type of fabric, because apparently winter is not coming to our region. The coldest temperature was 12०C to 15०C and only came during two days, after that we are having 15-20-21०C. So, I will wear this coat more often.

The pattern details, you can find here in burdastyle.com - pattern store I chose size 72. Two things I changed from the original pattern, I didn't top stitch the inseam pockets and I made the back slit shorter (25 cm).

The sewing process was a little bit slow, I started in 26 December 2016 and finished in 10 January 2017. The picture below shows some of the process, started with coat bodice, sleeves and lining. The only tricky part was to work with the lapels as I never work with it before. The instruction from Burda is actually easy to follow.

Here is the closer look of the snap buttons and inseam pockets. I tried to top stitch the inseam pockets but I had to remove because I didn't like it.

For the coat lining, I did almost all by sewing machine and some little parts with hand sewing. I was a little bit confused with the instruction from Burda so, I follow the tutorial from Threads. Here is the link How to bag jacket lining. The back slit was much easier than I expected, I did it with both sewing machine and hand sewing.
Picture below is the wrong side/inner coat. Front - back and the slit.

And the right side of the coat, front - back and the slit.

And now, more pictures of the coat on me, front - back and side views. I found out that the pockets were little bit too low on me. I will move a little bit up a few centimetres next time I sew this type of coat again.
Also, as this coat made for tall women size 72, I think I should have made alterations on the coat bodice to make it shorter or just simply cut the hem. The coat is knee length in the model picture but far below knee on my petite figure.


That's it for today, I will be linking this coat in MAGAM facebook group for December garment with theme "December Dreaming". And will be sewing January garment after this, two basic t-shirts - Deer and Doe Plantain T-shirt for "January Sew New Start".

Thank you for reading!

Love,
Hana

Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Classic V-neck Dress

Hello, I made this dress to wear in a friend's wedding party in the end of the year. My plan was to wear the sleeveless dress that I made some years back but I gave up because of the cold weather. So, I decided to make this dress. I am glad that the dress finished on time and it fits me fine even I didn't make a muslin.
For the fabric, I used wool blend with a little stretch in very dark blue colour from stash.
For the pattern, I used Burdastyle Power dress 08/2016 size 36 with a modification on the neckline and sleeve. After all, my dress is nothing like the original pattern :) I changed the neckline from round neckline with front slit to a v-neckline, also I changed the short sleeve to a long sleeve.
The dress has princess seams, knee length, back zipper, V shape at the front and back neckline - finished  with lace elastic band sewn around.
The sewing process started with sew the princess seams at the front and back bodices. Below picture is the original style of the back bodice, I decided to cut the back to a v-back bodice and did the same with front bodice.
For the front, I measured from the CF down 11 cm and made a new line of v-neckline. For the back, I measured from CB down 14 cm and made a new line of v-back as well. Too bad no more pictures to show about the process because I didn't have too much time for that, I just want to finish the dress as fast as possible :)
The sleeves has two pieces, front and back. I don't need to make adjustment, it fits nicely on my arm - not too tight or too loose, finished sleeve hems with 1.5 cm blind hem stitched.
The skirt has back darts that connected to the same line as the back seams. No darts at the front and finished with 3 cm blind hem.
The final dress is lovely and glad that I decided to sew it, I am sure I will wear it in another occasion.
Here is the front and back views of the dress on Ellie my dress form, 
The closer looks of the front princess seams and the finished neckline. Well, the lace elastic band is actually use for lingerie. I bought 6 yards to make undies one day. The elastic did a very good job here in my dress, it keeps the v-neckline stay in place nicely 😀
And here is the back side, invisible zipper inserted at center back. The dress looks a little bit bigger for Ellie but actually it fits me nicely.
The inner side/wrong side of the dress.
And more pictures of me wearing it. I decided to share rare pictures of me and DH here in the blog. Pictures taken at home before the party and the last picture taken in the place. It was a lovely wedding party.


That's it for today post, wishing all friends a happy sewing! I still have two more projects to share from 2016, hand knit cowl and oversize coat. Hope to blog about them next week.

Love,
Hana.

Friday, January 6, 2017

Blouses, Pink And Yellow.

Happy New Year 2017 everyone. May your new year be blessed with peace, love and joy.
I finally managed to take pictures of my November blouses, the first blouse is a wearable muslin in pale pink colour cotton and the real blouse is yellow lightweight jersey knit as shown in the picture below.

My first plan was to make the real blouse with knit tulle dot fabric in salmon colour but it was ruined because I accidentally cut the sleeve while trimming the excess fabric at the seam allowance. The same day when my overlocker machine broke. Uh oh, that must be the only day that I had two consecutive bad luck.
Anyway, I put the knit tulle fabric plus the leftover inside plastic bag and will be making another garment later. And gladly that the overlocker machine fixed after three days stayed in the shop for repair.
To paid my disappointment, I choose lightweight jersey knit in yellow colour to replace the salmon fabric that went disaster.

Pattern: BurdaStyle Blouse 11/2016#109. I made the first blouse (wearable muslin) exactly like the original pattern with a little bit higher neckline and finished sleeve with sleeve band. And the second blouse with some changed in the neckline, I added a long strip that I can tied or used it as pussy bow.

The sewing process of the wearable muslin - pale pink blouse was quite fast. I raised the center front at the v-neckline 2 cm because the neckline was too deep for my taste. I did all the work same as the pattern instruction, except the finished sleeve hem. I used hem band instead of elastic band as the original pattern suggested.
I gathered the sleeve hem and sew the band right side together, then fold another band to the inner side, pin along and sew carefully around the sleeve hem. Removed the gather, press with iron. As shown below,

The blouse has gathers at the rounded front yoke and I decided to sew a long dart at the center front 0.75 mm wide with the length until the top of my belly button. I did that because the V-neck was little bit too big. I also sewn invisible zipper at the center back.
Closer looks of the long dart at the center front and sleeve band.

The yellow blouse was a little bit different than the original pattern. I added a long strip from the same fabric and attached it to the neckline. My idea was to use the strip as a bow or just tie it together as it is.
Also, I used little pleats instead of gathers at the front side under the rounded yoke.
The back blouse just simply on fold, no zipper inserted here because of the knit fabric.
And for the finished sleeve hems, I inserted the elastic as the original pattern suggested.


Finally, here are last two pictures of me wearing the blouse. Pictures taken last weekend in the shopping mall at Cotai Central. I supposed to publish this post last week but my blogging mood was really slow at the moment.

After all, both fabrics - cotton and knit are works well with the pattern. I chosen size 36, the cotton blouse is fit just right and the knit blouse is a little bit loose but not sloppy. I love both :)

I will be posting this blouses in the facebook group MAGAM (make a garment a month). You are all welcome to join us in the monthly challenge.

Happy Sewing!

Love,
@Hana

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